So no vampires then.
It’s 4:30 in the morning, it has been light for half an hour but under the trees shadows still lurk on the edge of vision. And again there is not a hint of breeze. We join the group who bivvied on the beach as the horizon assumes a hazy orange glow. The waves are sweeping softly over the high tide line belying the deeper swell that makes the 5 Knot buoy bob and nod further out. We ride the swell as the sun clears the horizon filling each face with summer warmth and promise.
We swim back in as the sun rises higher making noticeable progress minute by minute, there is a lot of sky to cover today. Climbing back up the hill the shadows have fled away from beneath the tress, it is just 6 o’clock.
The first day of summer is a scorcher as the camper van creeps up the motorway then onto major roads and minor roads through the Brecon Beacons, across the heart of Wales. The route picks up the River Wye and follows it back up into the hills until crossing over at Eisteddfa Gurig from where I can almost see the sea. It is an extraordinary twist of geological fate that send the river instead half the length of Wales east to the Severn 100 miles back the way I just came.
It is much later in the day when I pull the camper onto the roadside at Borth.
The heat is already draining from the day as a slight breeze stutters over the pebbles and sand. The sun is now creeping down to the horizon off this seeming endless stretch of beach as I throw off my t-shirt onto my towel and wade out through the surf almost reaching the sunset before there is sufficient water in which to swim.
The sun creeps lower, casting golden tints across the water, its progress seems far slower than its earlier ascent, reluctant perhaps to give way to a brief darkness, a darkness that is now on the ascendant from here to December when there might again be vampires, but for now there is only the summer.